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By Derrick Story
You've heard this before:
"Digital cameras do all the work. You just push the button and
great pictures magically appear. The better the camera, the better the
photos". Isn't that right? Heck no!
The
truth is that you can make great photos with a simple consumer point-and-shoot
camera, or take lousy shots with the most expensive Nikon. It's not the
camera that makes beautiful images; it's the photographer. With a little
knowledge and a willingness to make an adjustment here and there, you
can squeeze big time photos out of the smallest digicam.
To help you down the road to great image making, here are ten tips that
will enable you shoot like a pro (without maxing out your credit card
on all that expensive equipment).
1. Warm Up Those Tones
Have you ever noticed that your shots sometimes have a cool, clammy feel
to them? If so, you're not alone. The default white balance setting for
digital cameras is auto, which is fine for most snapshots, but tends to
be a bit on the "cool" side.
When shooting outdoor portraits and sunny landscapes, try changing your
white balance setting from auto to cloudy. That's right,
cloudy. Why? This adjustment is like putting a mild warming filter on
your camera. It increases the reds and yellows resulting in richer, warmer
pictures.

Figure
1a. Figure
1b.
Figure
1a is shot outdoors in a mountain environment with the white
balance set to auto. Figure 1b shows warmer tones thanks to using the
"cloudy" setting and a pair of Costa Del Mar sunglasses over the front lens.
(Canon PowerShot S200, Program mode)
If you
don't believe, then do a test. Take a few outdoor shots with the white
balance on auto, then take the same picture again with the setting on
cloudy. Upload the images to your computer and look at them side by side.
My guess is that you'll like the warmer image better.
2. Sunglasses Polarizer
If you really want to add some punch to your images, then get your hands
on a polarizing filter. A polarizer is the one filter every photographer
should have handy for landscapes and general outdoor shooting. By reducing
glare and unwanted reflections, polarized shots have richer, more saturated
colors, especially in the sky.
What's that you say? Your digital camera can't accommodate filters. Don't
despair. I've been using this trick for years with my point-and-shoot
cameras. If you have a pair of quality sunglasses, then simply take them
off and use them as your polarizing filter. Place the glasses as close
to the camera lens as possible, then check their position in the LCD viewfinder
to make sure you don't have the rims in the shot.
Figure
2b
Figure 2a.
If your camera
doesn't accept filters, then you can still achieve the
effects of a polarizer by placing your sunglasses over the lens.
Figure 2a is shot normally without any filtration. Figure 2b is shot
during the same session, but with sunglasses placed over the lens. Notice
the
enhanced colors and deeper sky tones. (Canon PowerShot S200, Program
mode)
For
the best effect, position yourself so the sun is over either your right
or left shoulder. The polarizing effect is strongest when the light source
is at a 90-degree angle from the subject.
3. Outdoor Portraits That Shine
One of the great hidden features on digital cameras is the fill flash
or flash on mode. By taking control of the flash so it goes
on when you want it to, not when the camera deems it appropriate, you've
just taken an important step toward capturing great outdoor portraits.
In flash on mode, the camera exposes for the background first,
then adds just enough flash to illuminate your portrait subject. The result
is a professional looking picture where everything in the composition
looks good. Wedding photographers have been using this technique for years.
Figure
3. By placing the subjects in the open shade beneath a tree and turning on
the fill flash, both the boys and the background are properly exposed.
(Canon PowerShot G2, 1/250th at f-4, flash on)
After you get the
hang of using the flash outdoors, try a couple variations on this theme
by positioning the subject so the sun illuminates the hair from the side
or the back, often referred to as rim lighting. Another good technique
is to put the model in the shade under a tree, then use the flash to illuminate
the subject. This keeps the model comfortable and cool with no squinty
eyes from the harsh sun, and this often results in a more relaxed looking
portrait.
Remember, though, that most built-in camera flashes only have a range
of 10 feet, so make sure you don't stand too far away when using fill
flash outdoors.
4. Macro Mode Madness
Remember as a kid discovering the whole new world beneath your feet while
playing on the grass? When you got very close to the ground, you could
see an entire community of creatures that you never knew existed.
These days, you might not want to lie on your belly in the backyard, but
if you activate the close up mode on your digital camera and begin
to explore your world in finer detail, you'll be rewarded with fresh new
images unlike anything you've ever shot before.
Even the simplest object takes on new fascination in macro mode.
And the best part is that it's so easy to do with digital cameras.
Figure 4. Nature
looks much different, and sometimes more compelling, at close range.
(Canon PowerShot G2, Programmed exposure, spot meter, Close Up mode,
flash off)
Just look for the
close up or macro mode icon, which is usually a flower
symbol, turn it on, and get as close to an object as your camera will
allow. Once you've found something to your liking, hold the shutter button
down halfway to allow the camera to focus. When the confirmation light
gives you the go ahead, press the shutter down the rest of the way to
record the image.
Keep in mind that you have very shallow depth of field when using the
close up mode, so focus on the part of the subject that's most
important to you, and let the rest of the image go soft.
5. Horizon Line Mayhem
For some mysterious reason, most human beings have a hard time holding
the camera level when using the LCD monitors on their digicams. The result
can be cockeyed sunsets, lopsided landscapes, and tilted towers.
Part of the problem is that your camera's optics introduce distortion
when rendering broad panoramas on tiny, two-inch screens. Those trees
may be standing straight when you look at them with the naked eye, but
they seem to be bowing inward on your camera's monitor. No wonder photographers
become disoriented when lining up their shots.
Figure 5. How
do you square up an image in the LCD viewfinder so it appears "level"
when you view it later on the computer? Look for nature's horizontal
lines and use them as guides. Sometimes you can use the line where
the sky meets the ocean, other times you can use a strip of land as
your level. In this case I used the shoreline of a mountain lake to
help me align this composition. (Canon PowerShot G2, Aperture Priority
exposure set to f-8, polarizer filter)
What can you do?
Well, there's no silver bullet to solve all of your horizon line problems,
but you can make improvements by keeping a few things in mind.
First of all, be aware that it's important to capture your images as level
as possible. If you're having difficulty framing the scene to your liking,
then take your best shot at a straight picture, reposition the camera
slightly, take another picture, and then maybe one more with another adjustment.
Chances are very good that one of the images will "feel right" when you
review them on the computer. Simply discard the others once you find the
perfectly aligned image.
If you practice level framing of your shots, over time the process will
become more natural, and your percentage of level horizon lines will increase
dramatically.
6. Massive Media Card
When you're
figuring out the budget for your next digital camera, make sure you factor
in the purchase of an additional memory card. Why? Because the cards included
with your new high-tech wonder toy are about as satisfying as an airline
bag of peanuts when you're dying of hunger.
If you have a 2 megapixel camera, get at least a 64MB card, 128MBs for
3 megapixel models, and 256MBs for 4 megapixels and up.
That way you'll never miss another shot because your memory card is full.
7. High Rez All the Way
One of the most important reasons for packing a massive memory card is
to enable you to shoot at your camera's highest resolution. If you paid
a premium price for a 3 megapixel digicam, then get your money's worth
and shoot at 3 megapixels. And while you're at it, shoot at your camera's
highest quality compression setting too.
Why not squeeze more images on your memory card by shooting a lower resolution
and low quality compression settings? Because you never know when you're
going to capture the next great image of the 21st century. And if you
take a beautiful picture at the low 640 x 480 resolution, that means you
can only make a print about the size of a snapshot, not exactly the right
dimensions for hanging in the museum.
On the
other hand, if you recorded the image at 2048 x 1536 (3 megapixels) or
larger, then you can make a lovely 8- x 10-inch photo-quality print suitable
for framing or even for gracing the cover of Time magazine. And just in
case you we're able to get as close to the action as you had liked, having
those extra pixels enables you to crop your image and still have enough
resolution to make a decent sized print.
The point is, if you have enough memory (and you know you should), then
there's no reason to shoot at lower resolution and risk missing the opportunity
to show off your work in a big way.
8. Tolerable Tripod
I once overheard someone say, "He must be a real photographer because
he's using a tripod." Well, whether or not you use a tripod has nothing
to do with you being a true photographer. For certain types of shots though,
these three-legged supports can be very useful.
The problem is tripods are a pain in the butt to carry around. They are
bulky, unwieldly, and sometimes downright frustrating. Does the phrase
"necessary evil" come to mind?
For digital shooters there's good news: the UltraPod II by Pedco. This
compact, versatile, ingenious device fits in your back pocket and enables
you to steady your camera in a variety of situations. You can open the
legs and set it on any reasonable flat surface such as a tabletop or a
boulder in the middle of nowhere. But you can also employ its Velcro strap
and attach your camera to an available pole or tree limb.
Figure 6. The UltraPod
II is lightweight and affordable
You
might not need a tripod that often, but when you do, nothing else will
work. Save yourself the pain and money of a big heavy lug of a pod, and
check out the svelte UltraPod. Yes, then you too can be a real photographer.
9. Self Timer Fun
Now that you have your UltraPod in hand, you can
explore another under-used feature found on almost every digital camera:
the self timer. This function delays the firing of the shutter (after
the button has been pushed) for up to 10 seconds, fixing one of the age
old problems in photography: the missing photographer.
Hey, just because you've been donned as the creative historian in your
clan, that doesn't mean that your shining face should be absent from every
frame of the family's pictorial accounting. You could hand your trusty
digicam over to strangers while you jump in the shot, but then you take
the chance of them dropping, or even worse, running off with your camera.
Instead, attach your UltraPod, line up the shot, activate the self timer,
and get in the picture. This is usually a good time to turn on the flash
to ensure even exposure of everyone in the composition. Also, make sure
the focusing sensor is aimed at a person in the group and not the distant
background, or you'll get very sharp trees and fuzzy family members.
Self timers are good for other situations, too. Are you interested in
making long exposures of cars driving over the Golden Gate Bridge at dusk?
Once again, secure your camera on a tripod, then trip the shutter using
the self timer. By doing so, you prevent accidental jarring of the camera
as you initiate the exposure.
10. Slow Motion Water
I come from a family where it's darn hard to impress them with my artsy
pictures. One of the few exceptions happened recently when my sister commented
that a series of water shots I had shown her looked like paintings. That
was close enough to a compliment for me.
What she was responding to was one of my favorite types of photographs:
slow motion water. These images are created by finding a nice composition
with running water, then forcing the camera's shutter to stay open for
a second or two, creating a soft, flowing effect of the water while all
the other elements in the scene stay nice and sharp.
You
can create a painterly effect with moving water by mounting your camera
on a tripod and slowing the shutter to an exposure of 1 second or
longer. (Canon PowerShot G2, Aperture priority set to f-8, shutter
speed 1 second, polarizer filter, UltraPod II tripod)
Figure 7a. Figure 7b.

You'll
need a tripod to steady the camera during the long exposure, and you probably
should use the self timer to trip the shutter. If you camera has an aperture
priority setting, use it and set the aperture to f-8, f-11, or f-16 if
possible. This will give you greater depth of field and cause the shutter
to slow down.
Ideally, you'll want an exposure of one second or longer to create the
flowing effect of the water. That means you probably will want to look
for streams and waterfalls that are in the shade instead of the bright
sunlight.
Another trick is to use your sunglasses over the lens to darken the scene
and create even a longer exposure. Plus you get the added bonus of eliminating
distracting reflections from your composition.
Final Thoughts
Most digital cameras,
even the consumer point-and-shoot models, have a tremendous amount of
functionality built into them. By applying a little ingenuity and creativity,
you can take shots that will make viewers ask, "So what kind of camera
do you have?"
You can tell them the answer, but inside, you'll know it's not the camera
responsible for those great pictures. It's the photographer.
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