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Most images are
initially captured through a camera lens whether a traditional film camera
or a digital camera. The quality of the picture depends to a large extent
on understanding the photographic proces: Photography is simply time and
light, together with a good eye for composition. The camera is simply
the tool; the skill of the photographer is the major factor in taking
good photographs.
Preparing a setting
Lighting is a key ingredient in the mood of a photograph. It is important
to analyse the whole scene surrounding the subject before clicking the
shutter. This is the skill of a good photographer: monitoring of the subject's
placement within the context of a larger scene. A studio is an area in
which to take photographs under controlled conditions.
In many cases, objects may fit on a table top for photography, which requires
only minimum background. The same principles can be applied to larger
items as well. For complete control, one must exclude all light sources
not controllable by the photographer. The area selected should be big
enough so that the intended objects can be photographed without resorting
to wide-angle lenses. You can eliminate most distracting information using
a plain background. To set up a makeshift studio you will need to consider
a number of items. Backgrounds can be as simple as a blank white wall,
which can be made to appear any shade or colour by controlling white or
coloured light falling on it. Rolls of paper can also be taped high on
the wall and rolled out across the table.
Besides a camera, a sturdy tripod and lights; various props for supporting
objects, reflector cards, and modelling clay, (along with tweezers, brushes,
clean white cotton gloves, pins, and string) may be used in the studio.
Getting the Light Right
As mentioned earlier, photography is simply time and light and the basic
components of light are direction and quality. Direction gives shape and
emphasis to the subject: the quality refers to the harshness or softness
of the light, regardless of direction. These components can be seen outdoors
as the direction of the sun and whether it is direct hard sunlight or
softer light diffused by clouds.
To the human eye, the most natural lighting is a reflection of what we
observe outdoors, where the sun's illumination comes from above the camera-to-subject
axis. Observing these natural rules, although they can be broken for certain
special effects, gives a subconscious reassuring sense of realism to the
illumination of an object in a photo.
A simple lighting setup might use one light to illuminate the subject
from one side. To add a more natural look, a reflector can be placed on
the opposite side to bounce light back into the shadows created by the
light source. The angle of the light can be adjusted to vary the shape
of the subject; the harshness or softness can also be varied to suit the
eye.
Having a soft light source does not necessarily reduce the need for a
reflector. Although the eye may see detail in the shadows, film is unfortunately
more limited in its ability to record large differences between highlights
and shadows. Scenes or sets need to be illuminated at a lower contrast
to offset the increase in contrast that occurs during processing.
For reflective objects such as coins or other metallic surfaces, follow
the line of view from the camera lens to the object, then again as it
is reflected away at an equal angle relative to the perpendicular. Placing
a reflector or light source at this position will cause it to reflect
off the subject directly back into the lens. This will lighten the tones
of the metallic surface and bring up its texture as well.
Film
The choice of materials can affect the overall quality of the image. Films
vary not only in speed but also in colour rendition; resolution (slower
film speeds tend to equal higher resolution); colour balance (optimised
for different colour temperatures); exposure latitude, and so on. It almost
goes without saying that the film should give accurate colours and good
resolution, and be balanced for your lighting conditions.
The most important choices to be made here concern the film format (e.g.,
35mm; 4 x 5 etc.) and the quality of the lens(es). While 35mm film is
probably suitable for most pre-digitization photography, there are occasions
when the wealth of detail in the subject means that a larger format is
needed (e.g. for large paintings or architectural detail over a large
area).
Lenses
Image quality can vary enormously depending on the quality of the lens(es)
used -- try not to compromise here. Avoid zoom lenses if at all possible
-- a good prime lens (i.e., not a zoom) generally offers noticeably higher
quality images. Similarly, if there is a reasonable amount of macro (close-up)
work to be undertaken,invest in a dedicated macro lens rather than one
that offers this capability as an added feature.
Colour Targets
Colour targets can serve as checks on the photography, provide measurements
for the transparency scanning, calibrate monitors and printers, and facilitate
visual evaluation of on-screen and printed versions of the digital images.
Both greyscale and colour targets can be included during photography to
provide a level of control over colour and tone shifts: The colour-control
bars help the photographer and scanner operator compare the colour of
the subject with known printing colours. The greyscale is a quality-control
device of stepped, neutral values. Both colour and grey scale targets
are used in colour-matching images during photography, digitization, on-screen
viewing, and printing. Good colour-matching requires not only the information
on the colour scale, but also the grey-scale control of shadows, midtones
and highlights.
Film Processing
For the film development process, find a reliable photo lab that has experience
with developing large quantities of high-quality images. The first step
is to initiate a dialogue with the film processor to explain your needs.
Do not expect high-quality production on a rush basis; explain that you
are looking for consistent results. For best and most uniform results
use the following: Standard background and proper exposure; a manual override
or fixed setting, so that all images are consistent in colour and exposure;
and a consistent film stock to make printing and digitization easier.
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