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Beaches are areas of loose sediment (sand, gravel, cobbles)
controlled by ocean processes. Waves and currents move the
accumulated sediment constantly creating, eroding and changing the
coastlines.
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Kitty Hawk, North Carolina
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Most beaches have several
characteristic features. First are offshore
bars, which help protect beaches from erosion. Next is the foreshore,
which rises from the water toward the crest of the next feature: a
berm. On low-lying shores, dunes form
behind beaches. Dunes look like rolling hills of sand and are
blown into place by the wind. New, smaller dunes are often
changing shape as the wind continues to affect them. More
established (older) dunes hold sand in place with vegetation, such
as sea oats.
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When people picture beaches, they
often think of the ones near where they grew up. Most of the
shores along the US's East Coast and Florida's Gulf Coast are
white. The white sand comes from granite, which has been broken
down, or weathered, into quartz and feldspar.
But did you know some beaches have
black sand? Some islands in the Pacific Ocean do. This comes from
the weathering of volcanic rock.
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Dunes at Jockey's Ridge State Park in Kill Devil Hills, North
Carolina
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Other beaches are made of cobbles,
or small stones. Waves and currents cause these stones to churn
and pound over each other. Little life can exist in such a severe
environment.
A primary influence on the
formation and evolution of a beach is something called a longshore
current. This current flows parallel to the beach, causing
waves to strike the beach at an angle. The longshore current can
carry large amounts of sand along the coast and can form spits
(narrow peninsulas of sand), barrier islands
and tombolos (narrow sand deposits
connecting a near-shore island with the beach).
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