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Before
the Project
The garden
area looked like this at the start of the project

Design
Discussion
Approximately
every five feet at the top of the wall a Cross vine (Bignonia capreolata)
is planted. This vine gets orange flowers on it, very similar to trumpet
flowers. However, unlike trumpet flowers, Cross vine keeps its’ foliage
for most of the winter. In late fall, the leaves change from green to
burgundy. Depending on the severity of the winter weather, the burgundy
leaves will remain on the vine until about March. For several weeks the
vine will have no foliage, until the new spring growth starts in April.
Cross vine is a vigorous grower that will cover most of the wall within
several years.
To ease the
transition between the woods this property abuts and the open land, a
Leatherleaf viburnum (Viburnum rhytidophyllum) is planted at the far right,
under the shade of the woodland trees. Being evergreen, this plant will
provide winter interest. The woodland (not shown in this picture) will
also have several Leatherleaf Viburnum planted in it as under-story plants.
In the spring this shrub will get fragrant white flowers. In the fall
it will get yellow berries that will gradually turn red and then black.
A flowering
dogwood (Cornus florida or Cornus kousa) is planted to the left of the
Leatherleaf Viburnum. A tall thin dogwood, rather than a full round tree,
was selected to comfortably fit in this narrow area. The dogwood will
also ease the transition between open space and woodland, as well as provide
the Leatherleaf Viburnum with a little additional shade. A dogwood tree
was selected over other types, as the woods have dogwoods naturally growing
in them.
Planted under
the dogwood and beside the Viburnum is a decorative grass called Lyme
Grass (Leymus arenarius). This grass will grow in either full sun or partial
shade. This is advantageous, as this corner of the area being landscaped
will become partially shady as the viburnum and dogwood mature. Lyme grass
is tolerant of dry and sandy soil. While it may be invasive in moist soil,
it isn’t as invasive in dry soil. As it is being used as a ground cover,
its’ aggressiveness is actually an asset in this application. Within several
years it will form a thick mat of vegetation that will not even need to
be mulched. Unlike many decorative grasses, this grass keeps its’ blue-green
color all winter. You don’t need to cut Blue Lyme grass, except maybe
to occasionally revive it. The two to three foot long blades of grass
arch to the ground, creating a mound approximately one foot tall.
As a decorative
accent, a few Globe thistles (Echinops ritro) are intermixed with the
Blue Lyme grass. Globe thistles get tall thorny flowers. When the Lyme
grass fills in several years the globe thistles may be choked out. However,
by this time the globe thistles may very well be starting to decline.
If they aren’t declining, they can easily be moved. Globe thistle are
drought tolerant.
Three Hollywood
Junipers (Juniperus chinensis ‘Torolosa’) are planted in a curve left
of the dogwood. The reason why they are planted in a curve is the design
would look un-natural and too formal if all the plantings were lined up
against the wall perfectly straight. These plants are evergreen, providing
winter interest. They will also serve as a bit of a windbreak for the
plants to their right. Unfortunately, a computer generated picture does
not do this plant justice. Frequently, Hollywood Junipers have very irregular
twisted shapes. They provide character and interest to the landscape.
Their foliage is very scale like.
Planted with
the Hollywood Junipers are Japanese Barberry (Rose Glow) (Berberis thunbergii).
Barberries are very drought tolerant. The red leaves of Rose Glow and
the red winter- berries will look great with the green junipers and blue-green
Lyme grass. Not only are the colors of these plants complimentary, but
the different textures and foliage sizes and shape provide contrast and
interest.
In front of
the junipers is a planting of yellow Yarrow (Achillea). Yellow was chosen
because it is very attractive with the red barberry and green junipers,
as well as the blue green Lyme grass. The soft fern like foliage of the
Yarrow will provide an attractive contrast to the scale-like junipers
and the weeping Lyme grass. If not cut off in the fall, the dried flower
heads will be attractive in the winter.
In front of
the junipers and yarrow is a large planting of English Lavender (Lavandula
angustifolia). Lavender loves sandy soil. In fact a lavender grower told
me she uses sand as a mulch. Lavender is also extremely drought tolerant.
Lavender loves to be planted near a stone wall that reflects heat in the
summer. Its’ erect form will contrast with the weeping Lyme grass. The
purple flowers will also look attractive with the blue-green, red and
yellow of the other plants in this design. Either one type of English
lavender may be used, or you may want to mix Hidcote and Munstead. The
dimensions and colors of Hidcote and Munstead are slightly different and
provides an interesting texture effect when mixed.
This design
uses large sweeping plantings to maximize the effect of each plant. As
this area is along a road, most of the people passing by this planting
will not have time to stop and look at individual flowers. However, as
they drive by the effect of dozens of yarrow, lavender and lyme grass
will be very noticeable.
While all the
plants in this design are deer resistant, it always helps to incorporate
some plants that are actually deer deterrents into your design as a little
extra insurance. Both the lavender and the yarrow used in this design
are deer deterrents.
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