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By Esperanza Romero
The Basics
Although works of art on paper such as prints, drawings, and watercolors are
inherently fragile, they can be easily and effectively protected from damage
and deterioration. Preservation measures include:
- proper storage and
handling, including framing
- protection from
light
- protection from
unsafe temperature and relative humidity conditions
- protection from
pollutants and airborne particulates.
Proper Storage and Handling
Works of art
on paper should be touched as little as possible. Be sure that your hands
are very clean, or wear white cotton gloves. Better yet, mat, frame, or
store the works in a manner that permits viewing and transporting without
direct handling.
Because paper is
damaged by prolonged contact with acidic surroundings,
the choice of storage and mounting materials is crucial. Mats, folders, and
mounting adhesives must be chemically stable, nonstaining, and permanent but
reversible. Although framers are more knowledgeable today, some are still
unaware of the importance of using preservation-quality materials. It is
essential to find one who does. A paper conservator or a major museum can
refer you to such a framer. If your works on paper were framed commercially
before 1980, poor-quality mounting materials may have been used. One common
sign of poor mat board is browning of the cut edge of the window opening. If
you are unsure of how to identify the material in your framed artwork,
consult a paper conservator.
The
Essentials of Proper Framing
- a mat window and
backboard made of 100% ragboard or the lignin-free, alkaline-buffered
matboard especially for preservation purposes
- attachment of the
artwork to the mat or mount by hinging with high-quality Japanese paper
and a permanent, nonstaining, reversible adhesive. Homemade starch paste
is the choice of conservators. Avoid commercial tapes, including those
advertised as archival. If you want to try to do your own matting, a paper
conservator can advise you about sources of supplies.
- protective glazing,
either glass or rigid acrylic. The artwork must not be in direct contact
with the glazing material. Ultraviolet filtering products, available in
glass as well as plastic, are recommended to protect against the most
destructive component of light. Note that acrylics carry a static charge
and must not be used with pastels, charcoal, or other powdery or flaking
medium.
- an additional
protective layer of sturdy, lignin-free cardboard at the back of the
frame. The frame should also be well sealed to discourage entry of air.
Unframed works of art
must have individual protective enclosures. Although matting is preferred,
sturdy individual folders are an acceptable alternative. Like matboard,
these folders must be made of lignin-free, buffered stock that is rigid
enough to provide adequate support. To protect the edges of the artwork,
folders should be somewhat larger than their contents. Objects in folders or
mats should be stored flat in lignin-free boxes such as heavy-walled
Solander boxes, the traditional choice of museums. Oversized works of art
are best kept in the drawers of flat files (map cases). These files should
be made of metal rather than wood since wood gives off acidic gases. Wood
files can be used if the interior of the drawers is sealed with a
water-based polyurethane coating and lined with a suitable barrier material
such as lignin-free board or 5-mil polyester film (Mylar). If you purchase
storage drawer units, anodized aluminum or powder-coated steel are
recommended.
Javier Carmona
Protection from Light
Light causes fading of certain media, especially watercolor, pastels,
and many drawing inks. It can also darken or embrittle paper. Light damage
is cumulative and irreversible. Because all light will cause damage,
conservators recommend that no work on paper be permanently displayed.
The best display
conditions are those with low light levels and no daylight. Block windows
with shades, blinds, or curtains. Light sources containing ultraviolet (UV)
rays are especially harmful. UV is found in all daylight, most abundantly in
sunlight, and in the emissions of certain artificial lights, such as most
fluorescent and metal halogen lamps. Ordinary household bulbs (incandescent
or tungsten lights) contain negligible UV and are therefore recommended.
These bulbs give off heat, however, and should not be placed near the
artwork.
Special filters are
available to screen out UV radiation. Inexpensive plastic sleeves can be
purchased for fluorescent tubes. Windows or cases can be covered with
stick-on UV-absorbing films, or rigid sheets of UV-filtering plastic or
glass can be used in frames or windows.
Protection from Extreme Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH) Conditions
Because warm or moist conditions accelerate deterioration, temperature and
relative humidity (RH) should not exceed 20C and 60%, respectively. High
temperature and RH also encourage mold growth and insect activity. Very low
RH, below 25%, is believed to be less damaging but may cause paper to become
brittle.
Temperature and RH
should remain constant. Climatic fluctuations cause expansion and
contraction, which can lead to structural damage in paper, weaken the
attachment of media, and cause distortions such as rippling of paper. Frames
and storage enclosures may provide some degree of protection against daily
fluctuations but will not protect paper from long-term or seasonal changes.
Temperature can
usually be controlled by heating and air conditioning, but more expensive
equipment may be necessary to keep the RH constant all year. Lacking such
equipment, some control can be maintained by using portable dehumidifiers in
summer and by lowering the heat in winter.
During periods of high
humidity, use fans to circulate air and help discourage mold growth. Above
all, do not store works of art in basements or attics. Do not hang them in
bathrooms or over heat sources. Unless the building has excellent climate
controls, do not subject art on paper to seaside locations or other damp
areas.
Teiko Mori
Protection from Gaseous Pollution & Airborne Particles
Dust and soot will
soil delicate, porous paper surfaces and are difficult to remove safely.
Ubiquitous pollutants from industrial gases, auto emissions, and heating
compounds are readily absorbed into paper, where they form harmful chemicals
that discolor or embrittle. In addition, sources of internal air pollution,
such as copying machines, new construction materials, paint fumes, new
carpets, janitorial supplies, and emissions from wooden cabinets, can attack
paper.
Controlling air
quality is often difficult. Probably the most practical way to protect art
on paper is to enclose each object in protective housing made with
appropriate materials.
When Disaster Strikes
Although hurricanes and earthquakes may be rare, water accidents are common.
Even a small amount of water from a leaky roof or pipes can do significant
damage to a paper collection. If objects get wet, call a paper conservator
or a museum immediately. It is important to dry paper right away before mold
sets in. Wet objects in frames with glazing must be removed from their
frames. If you are hesitant to handle the damp paper, expose the object by
removing the backing from the frame. If the collection is too large to dry
right away, freezing may be necessary. Speak with a conservator first.
Paco Aguilar
When to Call a Conservator
Treatment of art on paper must be done by qualified conservators
specializing in paper, not by those who claim to treat all types of objects.
To find a conservator, contact the AIC office.
Some conditions need
immediate attention, while others can wait. Wet or moldy materials or those
with actively flaking media have high priority. So do brittle or fragile
papers in danger of splitting or tearing. Because they can stain within
months, recently applied self-stick tapes or labels should be removed
immediately. Objects stuck onto brittle or acidic cardboard may not require
emergency action, but they should be separated from their mounts as soon as
possible. When in doubt about the urgency of treatment, show the object to a
paper conservator. |